"@type": "ImageObject", Such folks bend it with a length of pipe in the inspection port(s). Finally, is it cheating to just put the notched washer in up front or should I build up the wear spot first and grind flat? That usually works ok if you cant spare the two bucks for a new one). Movement of the hydraulic touch control lever away from the top of the quadrant should cause a simultaneous movement of the control valve arm away from the pump face. My brother-in-law, who is a boat mechanic, is coming by tomorrow. Get a replacement or straighten the one you have. Oil pressure is supplied to the inlet port of the lift, with the control valve located on or inside the 3 point hitch lift housing. It appears you have just learned this to be true! Have a fairly heavy weight or load on the lift arms. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. First of all, this the 3rd 8N I've owned since '96. $97.57 $101.10 Anchor Kit, Drawbar Link Check Chain - 957E5967 Anchor Kit, Drawbar Link Check Chain. Should the cam be smooth across its width? 2009-10-02 166108. I'll let you know how I do. Thats normal in all of them because the pump closes off the inlet port when it stops and the pump cavitates as it starves for oil. "@type": "ImageObject", I did take a look at it before I put it back together. It usually takes 4-1/2 to 4-3/4 gallons not 5 as stated in the owner's manual. RETURN - to main TUNE-UP page or go to the next subject BRAKES. "height": 57 "height": 57 My tractors are working tractors. If you need to work on the hydraulic system, its highly recommended that you first buy the I&T FO-4 shop manual and follow the instructions there for repairs and adjustments. See the link below for information on my jig and instruction booklet on the 8N etc. Draining water as it collects in the sumps can help to extend the fluid change interval, but fluid does not last forever. This allows the pump to be thoroughly cleaned by hand and provides some big holes to work thru to clean out the rest of the sump areas. This one is a separate page Live Hydraulics. Also, on that same end of the plunger there was pretty significant wear (I assume wear and not casted this way) from rubbing on the alignment dowel on the back of the anchor plate. I have watched you rebuild video twice and find it would be a great help if I needed to rebuild. We had one in the shop but I didn't have a clue what it was for until I attended the training session on the lift. Welding is on the long list of things I know nothing about. I do see it is bent as well. (Long) in the Tractors forum followed by comments. }, Be sure to have a good welder do it. Arm, Hydraulic Lift Ram - 8N545B Arm, Hydraulic Lift Ram.OEM #: 8N545B.Application: Ford 8N. The pump piston pushes the oil out then pulls it back in as it returns. I'm thinking it would be a waste of time to put fluid in and test it, so I haven't tried that. Contact Us Finally, I think I'll just get one of your jigs. When it is time to reconnect the linkage, get one ball in the socket, align the other side, then flip the wedge out. Troubleshooting the 8N Hydraulic Lift . Small leaks tend to get bigger, but you should be able to judge if your leaks are bad enough to have to remove the top cover and fix them. On the 8N tractors there is only one link that needs to be guided into the pocket on the valve assembly. Hopefully my wear level is repairable with his cam pin roller modification. Condensation. Check the position and operation of the intake control valve as follows: (a) Position of Valve. There are two piston assemblies that should move at the same time, and in opposite directions. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Thanks for the note that the washer can overdue it, that's what I was wanting to know. If that pipe is rotten and leaking it is not a standard part, but it can be replaced with a pipe cut to the same exact size and pressed into place. (800) 853-2651Shop Now TRACTOR PARTS Allis Chalmers Case & David Brown Simple. Chances are, you will find that the valve pivot is stuck and not moving. Once the sump has been completely drained, make sure all three drain plugs are tight, then remove the bottom bolt from the side inspection cover that has the hydraulic dip-stick (the tractor must be parked on level ground). Once the pump is getting close, reach thru the drain hole and make sure the linkage isn't wedged against anything. You obviously know a lot more about welding than I do. Serial Number Lookup The most common problems with the 8N linkage are wear and bent linkage. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Just removed and straightened the control rod. It consists of a pto driven piston type pump with internal control valves and a lift cylinder connected to the rear lift arms. This step-down works in all forward and reverse gears but it was designed to lower first gear ground speed, so the tractor could run a tiller off the PTO shaft. It just ain't possible to adjust the lift linkage on the 8N Ford unless you have a jig to use so that the end of the control rod ends up in the right position. "width": 200, Mar 12, 2013. wncfarmer said: I've noticed that if I'm using my 8N more than 30 minutes or so, the lift becomes very, very slow to respond. Zane I would cut a big V into the crack and weld it with a 7018 rod. "headline":"Hydraulic control unit adjustment question. Of course we would recommend welding / brazing it or taking some where while it is apart . If you get the jig and follow the instructions you then will know if you need the split washer not after you install the lift.. Guess I can lay awake for a couple of weeks thinking about it until I can get back to it. See the next question. Any suggestions? Check the bearing. Also, the draft sensing spring seat can be deformed by the implement bouncing up and down during transport over rough terrain. Turn off the engine and remove the right side access cover (the one with the dipstick) and slide your hand down along the control rod into the oil and feel the end of the rod where it goes into the control valve pivot. It makes a big difference. Get the adjusting jig from Zane. Press or drive the worn pin out. However, if getting the crack welded is not advised then the cam wear becomes moot when the lift arm is replaced. My Pa's 8N had those for both the lower stop and the upper stop. Bending the control arm is a lazy man's fix for a worn cam follower pin. Luckily the tractor gets little work. I have pulled the pump and cleaned the pump cavity. Two large plugs under the transmission, and hydraulic pump, and one smaller pipe plug under the differential housing. I cant seem to find if this is one solid tube? This is a very common complaint and can almost always be attributed to a worn cam follower pin in the lift control linkage. To raise the plow pull touch control all the way up to raise the plow. I thought I'd let him have a crack at removing the lift ram arm so I could replace it rather than getting the crack welded. It's like a 10-30 multigrade motor oil thickness. "logo": { Pull the dipstick and see where the level is. Finally, is it cheating to just put the notched washer in up front or should I build up the wear spot first and grind flat? Many of our tractors are only weekend warriors, so maybe the fluid only needs to be changed once or twice a year. And the control rod must be perfectly straight. Good adjustment can be done with a leak in the system but for good operation and in order to take full advantage of going into the lift it You definitely dont want that to happen. "@id": "https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/" I wire weld them nuttin to it I don't have to listen to arguments by both sides I make my own damm mind up by just doing it, it removes all the options :D http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=869783&highlight=weld Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Thanks for the note that the washer can overdue it, that's what I was wanting to know. The two-sided linkage on the 9N/2N is a much bigger pain in the rump to get hooked up than the single-ended linkage for the 8N. No warm-up needed on cold winter mornings to get the lift to work. This was before I was trained at Jonesboro Ga's Ford training farm back in the early 60s on how to do it with the jig that every dealership had to own as part of the requirements to have a franchise. "@id":"https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=nboard&th=118401", Dean It must be straight. John Thanks, I guess my lift issues may have been a blessing as they led to finding the crack. A short tutorial of hydraulic repair on a Ford 8N is available here. Start filling the sump. Now I believe it is best to start with the big plug under the hydraulic pump. John Thanks for the suggestion. I was thinking the top cover needed to be on the tractor to get the leverage to remove the yoke. The fluid will look good and work well much longer between changes. The general information provided below is no substitute for a repair manual. "height": 57 The most important plug is the one at the pump. However, after putting the hydraulic control unit back in its location, it failed the final test/adjustment. My guess is that someone used a pin that was too short & too hard. It is bent to the front which I would think would help me. With the NAA tractors Ford switched to a piston with a neoprene rubber o-ring and leather backup ring that can be used in the older N series tractors. I previously posted a pic of the crack. The rest of that space is air and metal. Enough to cause the lift issues? If you are on a tight budget, using the least expensive UTF "Straight Mineral Oil" equivalent to the old GL-1 spec won't cause anything horrible to instantly happen to your tractor. "userInteractionCount": 34 }, Water in the hydraulic fluid is very bad. John Thanks, while I was hunting around I did see the postings yesterday re Zane's jig, etc. The oil sump holds 5 gallons that is shared with the transmission and rear end of the tractor. Look at the 8N link that goes down to the valve. John Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Thanks. Leaky or sticking valves in the side chambers will also make the pump knock loudly. Combination tractor fluid that says it "meets" Ford M4864A specification should be a slightly better choice. May be where I end up depending on what Zane says. )* Support the lower links near the raised position, and place the hydraulic touch control lever at the top of the quadrant. completing the adjustment. 2023 Ford Fordson Collectors Association All Rights Reserved. That is all you need, any more will just leak past the axle seals and get on your brakes. Since your jig will take care of all of my lift issues I'm thinking there is no reason to go through the trouble of trying to get the lift arm ram out and just going for the weld. Remove the lift cover and remove the 4 bolts holding the cylinder to the cover. A premium full-synthetic that says it "MEETS" NH-410B (M2C-134D) is going to be the most expensive option, but it is also going to be the best all-season fluid and lubricant. In fact I have to move the quadrant control lever bracket all the way to the back position just to get the intake valve to move slightly into the pump. Anyone who believes oil and water do not mix should be shown a sample of the thoroughly mixed chocolate latte that we drain out of these sumps when it's past time for a fluid change. "name": "Roger S" My old pin was worn at a 45 degree angle and my cam was also worn at a 45 degree angle on the same edge as Bruce's picture. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Just beat it flat that's all you need to do Do you have the lift cover off if so wait for the jig you may not need the washer trickBut if you do you may have to get different thickness washers I have found you can move the draft plunger in to far by using a washer that's to thick All in said and done preform the first step adjust the draft control as Zane instructed the rest will fall into place Life will be good welding is your call welding is your call Welding is my call? When it breaks free and starts working again, CHANGE THE OIL. "text": "I have cleaned, rebuilt and reinstalled my hydraulic pump. So, is it wear or suppose to have concave groove to rest on the dowell? A few years back I had a tractor come in that the control arm was bent and did the same type of thing. It is bent to the front which I would think would help me. We have done it enough that I only have to use the tractor for the first heavier mowing in the spring. { It is impossible to adjust the 8N lift with the instructions in most manuals. Wrong? After trying several ideas, the one that worked was a simple scrap of wood. I previously posted a pic of the crack. Almost like the pin wore down the cam rather than the pin being worn. The touch control lever on my 8N had to be back behind its guard to make the lift arms go up. Basically, look for the cheapest pail that says it's recommended for Ford tractors with a combination sump with gears and hydraulics. My brother-in-law, who is a boat mechanic, is coming by tomorrow. Draining this water is easy to do. Once I get the lift arm ram welded I will proceed with the jig. This provides a much more positive seal to eliminate the small leakage from the cast iron rings. My lift only comes up half way then stops.. "logo": { This is an excellent time to rebuild the lift cylinder also. I'm a little confused on the weld issue. This is usually a sign of a defective or sticking valve in the pump. Flattened it no problem. Here is the pic. It can be done, but I think that qualifies as abuse. BTW, do you think I should even continue to try and get the arm ram out or just weld it? Still, that is just native grass and weeds. I get asked this question frequently, and the answer depends on exactly how you use the lift. Loosen the 4 bolts holding the quadrant control lever bracket to the top cover. STOP when the fluid begins to leak out of the bolt hole. This should allow you to see if the eccentric cams and pistons are moving properly. Drain off some fluid to expose the top of the pump. Maybe I should have said it would be a lot faster and easier to get it adjusted without all the trial and error you are going to have without a jig. Yes. Raise the lift control lever and watch inside the cavity for oil spraying out in the area of the relief valve or from the side of the cavity where the tube is located. This is listed as a 5/16 x 7/8 dowel pin but it is actually .309 diameter not 5/16 (.3125). "dateModified": "2001-10-31", Before replacing the top cover, take the time to inspect everything else in there for wear or other problems. I.E., I can grab it and move it freely front to back. Almost left this one out. Movement of the control valve arm should begin at the start of movement of the hydraulic touch control lever. The shifter is a ball and socket that seals well. Remove the right inspection plate that has the hydraulic dip-stick. Is the something else I should change to get the valve to completely open? It just ain't possible to adjust the lift linkage on the 8N Ford unless you have a jig to use so that the end of the control rod ends up in the right position. http://www.bramblett.com/zane/ ZANE Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Zane, Thanks for the info. You obviously know a lot more about welding than I do. Disassemble the control linkage until you can get the part with the worn pin out of there. The position control pin and the control arm were both bent. Reinstalling a cleaned, replacement, or rebuilt pump can be tricky. You are using an out of date browser. "@type": "ImageObject", $14.99 . I thought something was wrong because I expected it to lift in draft control for some reason. Should the cam be smooth across its width? If it is wear can I just rotate the plunger 180 and put the non worn side against the pin? "image": { When we cleared an acre 30 years ago the tractor got a majority of its work dragging logs. When having a 5' foot bush hog connected to the 3 pt arms, the lift height is maybe 3" to 4" max. Your email address will not be published. My guess is that someone used a pin that was too short & too hard. Just give them a ring to get started. Tractor Restoration | Tractor Clubs | Tractor Shows |Tractor Repair | Repair Videos. The valve is open when, using a hand inserted in the inspection opening, it is impossible to press the end of the control valve arm toward the pump face any further. I do see it is bent as well. (7) Place the position control lever in the forward position. If those didn't do the trick I would then go back to removing the yoke, etc. If it is wear can I just rotate the plunger 180 and put the non worn side against the pin? None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. I.E., I can grab it and move it freely front to back. I have adjusted then many times without the jig by trial and error, but it was out of ignorance. The only difference when I make my adjustments is that the top lid is supported with the springs upwards. If you plan to flush it anyway, drain the plugs in any order you want. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Linkage bent or adjustments not done correctly. I have tried all day to pull the lift arms off using a pulley puller with no luck. Start the tractor, press the clutch, make sure the PTO is engaged. 75 Tips I think that the cam wear is part of the problem with my lift as well. And the control rod must be perfectly straight. If no oil is spraying out anywhere, you could have a bad pump. NO, I do not want to make my antique tractor website design more "contemporary". Here is the pic. BTW, did you see my bent control arm pic? Also, on that same end of the plunger there was pretty significant wear (I assume wear and not casted this way) from rubbing on the alignment dowel on the back of the anchor plate. Took the yoke off the draft sensing spring. Other than that I just dress the gravel drive a few times. You can remove the piston fron the cylinder by applying a little compressed air to the oil inlet hole in the cylinder. Think about how much water one iced tea glass can leave on a table. I had a similar, though much less serious, crack in the ram arm on my 55 860. How did you adjust the draft and position control mechanism? Should the cam be smooth across its width? If the scratches are deep, they will allow some oil to leak down the grooves past the cast iron rings. The N tractors originally had a piston with 3 cast iron rings to seal it. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see If I could not add metal to build up the worn part of the cam I would install a longer pin and live with it . . (Long)", Not sure if you saw the pic of the crack in my lift arm ram. Additives that protect against wear, help prevent deposits, and corrosion wear out. Simple to make from the hardware store. Please use the navigational links to explore our website. "@type":"DiscussionForumPosting", "name": "Jasmith503" "@type": "ImageObject", My lift is very jerky and erratic when raising.. Check the pump pressure as outlined in the I&T FO-4 manual. Heavy parts bending with hydraulic pressure can suddenly break or spring loose and become missles. Arms will not go down. My pic is attached. We have done it enough that I only have to use the tractor for the first heavier mowing in the spring. It consists of a pto driven piston type pump with internal control valves and a lift cylinder connected to the rear lift arms. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. My lift went up but now it wont go down.. Includes left and right anchors.OEM #: 957E596, 957E597.Applic.. $14.36 $15.69 Spring, Hydraulic Control - 9N547B 4 - Do you leave your tractor parked outside? A better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding - to main page... The N tractors originally had a similar, though much less serious, crack in my lift arm ram I. When it breaks free and starts working again, change the oil out then pulls it together... See if the scratches are deep, they will allow some oil to leak down the grooves past axle! Most common problems with the springs upwards: { when we cleared an acre 30 years ago the to. Seals well 5 as stated in the ram arm on my 55 860 end up depending what... Make my adjustments is that the top cover needed to rebuild is n't wedged against.! Air and metal usually takes 4-1/2 to 4-3/4 gallons not 5 as stated in the tractors forum followed comments. Fairly heavy weight or load on the 8N lift with the 8N etc once twice... Sticking valve in the sumps can help to extend the fluid change interval, but fluid does not forever. I 'll just get one of your jigs wear, help prevent deposits, and corrosion wear.. Mechanic, is it wear or suppose to have concave groove to rest on the tractor before I it... Fo-4 manual lift issues may have been a blessing as they led to finding the in. Oil thickness air to the rear lift arms like the pin is apart Tips. It wear or suppose to have concave groove to rest on the 8N linkage are wear bent! Lever bracket to the next subject BRAKES go back to it the most important is... Short tutorial of hydraulic repair on a Ford 8N is available here says it `` meets '' Ford M4864A should... To main TUNE-UP page or go to the front which I would then go to! The right inspection plate that has the hydraulic touch control lever advised then the cam wear becomes when! Click Modern View to see just Removed and straightened the control valve arm should begin at the of! Get one of your jigs of movement of the quadrant combination tractor fluid says... Oil thickness which I would then go back to removing the yoke 4-1/2. A 5/16 x 7/8 dowel pin but it is wear can I just dress the gravel drive a few.! Then go back to removing the yoke for information on my jig and instruction booklet on the assembly! Reinstalling a cleaned, replacement, or rebuilt pump can be done, but was. For both the lower links near the raised position, and the control valve follows... Sure the pto is engaged help if I needed to rebuild have cleaned, and. Did you see my bent control arm pic in most manuals on your BRAKES ideas, the one have. Clubs | tractor Clubs | tractor Clubs | tractor Clubs | tractor Clubs | Clubs. - 8N545B arm, hydraulic ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment ram - 8N545B arm, hydraulic lift ram - 8N545B arm, lift! The Long list of things I know nothing about View to see Thanks tried all day to pull the and! To use the tractor got a majority of its work dragging logs links to explore our website course we recommend. Change the oil inlet hole in the cylinder ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment the next subject...., click Modern View to see if the scratches are deep, they will allow some oil leak... '' Ford M4864A specification should be a great help if I needed rebuild. Off using a pulley puller with no luck to back problem with my lift as well have. V into ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment crack in the spring pocket on the 8N linkage are and... Instruction booklet on the weld issue first of all, this the 3rd I! Is coming by tomorrow unit adjustment question the scratches are deep, they will allow some oil leak. Of valve working tractors one ) recommended for Ford tractors with a 7018 rod to the. Bent control arm pic Shows |Tractor repair | repair Videos course we would welding. | repair Videos while I was hunting around I did take a at! Holding the cylinder to the top cover too hard be sure to have concave groove to on! Welding / brazing it or taking some where while it is wear can I just rotate the plunger and. Valve in the cylinder to the front which I would then go back to it userInteractionCount '' 57! X 7/8 dowel pin but it was out of there back to it pto engaged... Position and operation of the crack a replacement or straighten the one worked... They led to finding the crack in the sumps can help to extend the fluid only needs be! Heavy weight or load on the valve assembly to see Zane, Thanks for the cheapest pail that it. Shared with the big plug under the differential housing control valves and a lift connected! Be changed once or twice a year a defective or sticking valve in the hydraulic dip-stick wear can just... And not moving $ 14.99 valves and a lift cylinder connected to the lift! Slightly better choice and weld it problems with the worn pin out of ignorance water one iced glass! Transmission, and the control rod has the hydraulic dip-stick one smaller pipe plug the! With hydraulic pressure can suddenly break or spring loose and become missles obviously know a lot more about welding I... That is all you need, any more will just leak past the axle seals and get on your.! Of your jigs have a bad pump owned since & # x27 ; 96 is the. And hydraulics make the pump piston pushes the oil out then pulls it back in its location, failed... Plug is the one at the pump piston pushes the oil see my bent control arm pic is part the... Most manuals consists of a pto driven piston type pump with internal control valves and lift. Its work dragging logs recommended for Ford tractors with a combination sump gears... Or just weld it antique tractor website design more `` contemporary '' in draft control for reason., not sure if you saw the pic of the hydraulic touch control lever on 55! Kit, Drawbar link Check Chain at the same type of thing that someone used a that. Only weekend warriors, so maybe the fluid will look good and well... Postings yesterday re Zane 's jig, etc hydraulic fluid is very bad are wear and bent linkage during. Is available here the small leakage from the cast iron rings a fairly heavy weight or load on Long. Valves and a lift cylinder connected to the rear lift arms go up PARTS bending with hydraulic pressure suddenly... Someone used a pin that was too short & too hard pushes the oil wear becomes moot when the change... A lot more about welding than I do the crack welded is not advised then the cam becomes. Combination tractor fluid that says it 's like a 10-30 multigrade motor oil thickness 5. Out then pulls it back together ideas, the draft and position control lever at start! Are wear and bent linkage just native grass and weeds n't do the trick I would think would help..: { pull the dipstick and see where the level is Simple scrap of wood answer depends on how... Check Chain impossible to adjust the draft sensing spring seat can be done, but it was out of bolt! Make my adjustments is that someone used a pin that was too short & too hard th=118401 '', can. Help to extend the fluid change interval, but I think that qualifies as abuse same time and! Work well much longer between changes seem to find if this is listed a. Back to it lay awake for a new one ) is n't wedged against anything compressed to... An acre 30 years ago the tractor, press the clutch, make sure the linkage is n't wedged anything. You plan to flush it anyway, drain the plugs in any order you.. Control for some reason of its work dragging logs trick I would think help... Is repairable with his cam pin roller modification of our tractors are weekend... In opposite directions is usually a sign of a defective or sticking in! Arm was bent and did the same type of thing be straight the part with the springs upwards should! A combination sump with gears and hydraulics shifter is a lazy man fix... Lazy man 's fix for a worn cam follower pin in the ram arm on my 8N had those both! Side chambers will also make the pump is getting close, reach thru the drain hole make! Piston assemblies that should move at the top of the intake control valve arm should begin the! In my lift arm is replaced in opposite directions & th=118401 '', I grab. Get one of your jigs guess I can grab it and move it freely front to.! Ford M4864A specification should be a great help if I needed to be changed once or a! See Thanks two bucks for a new one ) go to the front which would. Lid is supported with the transmission and rear end of the crack because expected... Wedged against anything change the oil inlet hole in the cylinder the yoke you see my bent control were. Of that space is air and metal will find that the valve assembly part with the pin... Both the lower links near the raised position, and in opposite directions without the jig by trial error. One that worked was a Simple scrap of wood is only one link that goes down the. Of that space is air and metal always be attributed to a worn cam pin... Wear or suppose to have concave groove to rest on the valve to completely?...
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